Located in the Hamptons in Long Island, New York, Wölffer Estate is best known as a winery. However, they expanded into spirits in the late 2010s— in particular gin because (as distiller Roth told Wine Spectator back in 2016), “Gin is much more interesting than vodka.”
Their gin is built on the winery’s well known Rose wines (grape) and adds a tight list of six botanicals to make their Wölffer Estate Gin, including the somewhat less common cumin seed and hand picked juniper berries from the winery estate.
Tasting notes
Aroma: Gently spice-forward, with chewy fennel seed and licorice on the nose. A hint of celery lies underneath—but fans of anise and licorice will find plenty to enjoy here.
Flavor: The grape base is bold and present, almost starring as a botanical in its own right. Some grappa-like tasting notes come through—hints of unripe Bartlett pear, Granny Smith apple, and celery sit alongside more literal notes from the botanicals. Fennel seed and licorice are loud throughout, growing especially prominent as the warmth builds toward the finish. Hints of resinous pine peek through, with nutty tones suggestive of pecan and a touch of peanut.
Wölffer Estate Gin leans to the warmer side of the spectrum, with some ethanol heat evident on both the nose and palate.
Finish: Rather long and warm. Radiant licorice and fennel seed glow with a flavor profile that calls to mind aquavit more so than gin. Notes of caraway, fennel seed, and cumin especially come through here.
Cocktails and suggested serves
I found that mixed drinks like the Negroni or Last Word complemented the bold spice notes of this gin well.
In a gin and tonic or gin and soda, however, the less balanced side of this gin came through and sometimes overwhelmed. The gin and tonic, in particular, reads more like a fennel and tonic with a strong grappa-like character. This gin is memorable because of its base; however, that same quality is also what keeps it from fully succeeding as a gin—the base is almost too front and center.
Overall, Wölffer Estate Gin
Wölffer Estate Gin is a fun concept by an established winery that celebrates what they’re best known for. However, ultimately it comes up a bit short as a gin. The base spirit is bold and shines loudly in cocktails— this can make it somewhat tough to mix with.
Secondly, juniper is overpowered by a rather heavy handed use of fennel. It reminded me of a Swedish-style aquavit, almost more than a gin.
Overall, if you like fennel-forward aquavit try Wölffer Estate Gin.
Otherwise, it’s a gin that does some interesting things while struggling with balance and accentuating the core ingredient.